It's such clever, nuanced and, yes, mature cooking that what might have been dismissed initially as gimmickry has diners scheduling future meals to see how this young upstart handles Mexican and Peruvian food.

Carrington’s time at Sydney’s Firedoor has been a big influence on Atlas. He’s fitted the kitchen with a wood-fired oven and custom-designed grill.

“When you create dishes as a chef, it’s all about flavour first. But now we are thinking about flavour, about it being healthy and how much time it takes to cook.”